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Capt. Sterling

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"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

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The stitchbuttonholestitch.jpg


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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stitchhighlighteed.jpg

Right then, highlighted the thread to show what part passes over and what part passes under in order to get your knot... and just in case the purple is OVER/ON TOP of the green and the point of the needle is OVER the thread as well... slowly pull it taunt to get your stitch/knot... repeat

Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Good now keep practicing... by the time yer down with your coat and waistcoat, you'll be a pro...


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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I tried taking pictures, but my camera doesn't like shots so close.. .But I am very surprised about how much nicer that looks than my machine button holes... It takes a hell of a lot longer but it is worth it... And it seems to get easier the more you do. Thanks Captain for the visual, it was really helpful.

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Thank you for the information. I retyped it for copy and paste purposes.

A Worked or Thread Buttonhole

A thread buttonhole is also called a worked buttonhole. In 18th Century sewing, a hand-worked buttonhole is a must: and when properly done, the buttonhole is a great source of satisfaction and will last longer than a machine buttonhole.

1. Mark each buttonhole with a pencil. OR CHALK

2. Using linen or silk thread, baste around each buttonhole, before you cut.

3. After you have marked the buttonhole, basted around the place to be cut, and made the cut, your next step is to overcast the cut edges so they will not ravel. Overcasting also provides "body" for your buttonhole stitch.

NOTE: They turn out nicer if you cut them open after all stitching is done.

4. The needle is inserted under the edge of the buttonhole to whatever depth seems desirable and the thread brought under the point of the needle as shown.

5. Buttonhole stitches are taken close together, so that you cannot see the fabric showing between the stitches, but they do not overlap. The depth, or bit, of the stitches is determined by the size of the buttonhole and the type of fabric used. Naturally, a large buttonhole on a heavy fabric will have stitches which go deeper into the material than those in a tiny buttonhole on a lightweight fabric.

6. The end of the buttonhole which bears the greater strain should be finished with a group of stitches worked fan-shape. (This is the end which has the button puling against it.) Make a bar tack, as shown, at the opposite end.

The effort put forth in the small amount of hand sewing done on the shirt makes a better appearing shirt. The attention to detail is important. Care should be taken when attaching the heart to the bottom of the throat opening that the stitches going through the top of the heart really catch into and bind the "v" section for a short distance.

NOTE: Bar tack on both ends works just as well as the fan.

 

image.jpeg.6e5f24495b9d06c08a6a4e051c2bcc99.jpeg

 

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forgot a question... is the button hole stitch usually elongated like your pics ??? i imagine that it is for extra decor for a fancier look ???

I'm not quite sure what you mean by elongated? Wide stitches? From what I have seen of originals my stitches are way too wide...now a lot of buttonholes were done on the fabric prior to cutting out the garment... I make my buttonholes after the garment is finished... and basically I'm too lazy to break up the stitch by going up and down... instead of just catching a bit of the fabric... am I making sense? when going through one layer as opposed to several the width can be much smaller and tighter... also with one layer, you can keep it taunt like a piece of embroidery.... which isn't going to happen on a finished coat to the same degree


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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I tried taking pictures, but my camera doesn't like shots so close.. .But I am very surprised about how much nicer that looks than my machine button holes... It takes a hell of a lot longer but it is worth it... And it seems to get easier the more you do. Thanks Captain for the visual, it was really helpful.

My one cousin used to hand sew soooo much that she actually put a pc set of bed hangings together faster by hand then I did by machine... the more you hand sew the faster you get, the smaller and nicer your stitches are, and a lot of time, aye they look better than machine stitching


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Thank you for the information. I retyped it for copy and paste purposes.

A Worked or Thread Buttonhole

A thread buttonhole is also called a worked buttonhole. In 18th Century sewing, a hand-worked buttonhole is a must: and when properly done, the buttonhole is a great source of satisfaction and will last longer than a machine buttonhole.

1. Mark each buttonhole with a pencil. OR CHALK

2. Using linen or silk thread, baste around each buttonhole, before you cut.

Thanks William, one big headache tackled...


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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forgot a question... is the button hole stitch usually elongated like your pics ??? i imagine that it is for extra decor for a fancier look ???

I'm not quite sure what you mean by elongated? Wide stitches? From what I have seen of originals my stitches are way too wide...now a lot of buttonholes were done on the fabric prior to cutting out the garment... I make my buttonholes after the garment is finished... and basically I'm too lazy to break up the stitch by going up and down... instead of just catching a bit of the fabric... am I making sense? when going through one layer as opposed to several the width can be much smaller and tighter... also with one layer, you can keep it taunt like a piece of embroidery.... which isn't going to happen on a finished coat to the same degree

when the stitching extends about two inches or so past the actual button hole.... like the pics show with the darker coat...

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I tried taking pictures, but my camera doesn't like shots so close.. .But I am very surprised about how much nicer that looks than my machine button holes... It takes a hell of a lot longer but it is worth it... And it seems to get easier the more you do. Thanks Captain for the visual, it was really helpful.

My one cousin used to hand sew soooo much that she actually put a pc set of bed hangings together faster by hand then I did by machine... the more you hand sew the faster you get, the smaller and nicer your stitches are, and a lot of time, aye they look better than machine stitching

Also keep in mind that a hand worked buttonhole and prick stitched coats are still prided by tailors even today. Take a walk through Nordstroms or a high end department store and check out the expensive suits.

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forgot a question... is the button hole stitch usually elongated like your pics ??? i imagine that it is for extra decor for a fancier look ???

when the stitching extends about two inches or so past the actual button hole.... like the pics show with the darker coat...

Ah I think I got you now.... in many cases the buttonhole extends well past the area that is actually cut open for the button itself... many buttonholes seemed to be worked any where from 1" to 2" long... purely for style... dang, I'd post ye a picture but I just realized my coats are still in the car since RF5... boy I was sicker than I thought...

Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Ah I think I got you now.... in many cases the buttonhole extends well past the area that is actually cut open for the button itself... many buttonholes seemed to be worked any where from 1" to 2" long... purely for style... dang, I'd post ye a picture but I just realized my coats are still in the car since RF5... boy I was sicker than I thought...

that's what i thought.... does make it look neater ... i'll take a peek at your coat in columbus...

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Rate I'm going, it will still be in the car... :unsure:


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Silas... the extension of the theading for the buttonhole can look decorative... but was more for practicality. Grab 2 to 5 threads from the mark where the cut will be. If you stitch the buttonhole at or or two threads from the mark, then it can and most likely will unravel too easily. Buttonholes can put up with heavy usage.

YES! That's exactly the piccies, Michael! Thank ye. And yes, ye did give some fabulous advice, though not directed towards me. I'd been cutting the fabric before I thread the buttonhole cause that's how I understood it to be from a couple books, etc... but apparently they were wrong. Again, thank ye, now th' buttonhole function properly. :lol:

Oooo.. Sterling! I REALLY like that one image, the dark brown with those covered buttons. The design on the buttons is incredible! Now.. is that a fabric covered button or a thread button?

~Lady B

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thread from the look of em


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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